Colmar to Waldkirch 66km

I was keen to get away as early as possible today given the heat. Breakfast was a non-event and not worth the money I paid. I need to be careful with this in future. After coffee, juice and a piece of fruit, I was packing the bike and heading out. 

I rode through beautiful quiet farmland on small roads and dedicated cycleways. It was so peaceful, As the day went on, I was stopping more frequently to cool down whenever I could. I even found a fountain to cool me down! 

My biggest issue at the moment is food. I just can’t get enough calories. With only a light breakfast, and no lunch (just a snack), it’s too late to find anything when I get in around 2-3pm. Then by the time I get to cook dinner, I’m no longer hungry so most of it goes in the bin! I need to find a way to better manage this. It’s not easy as a celiac. 

The campground ended up being up a massive hill and I somehow missed the bike path. These can be hard to find if you’re not used to it and are often behind hedges or greenery. I was misplaced a few times as my iPhone was struggling with the heat and wouldn’t display the screen. The result of the missed bike path was terrible abuse but whatever! I’m not intentionally being in anyone’s way. Interestingly, the police passed me and slowed down and then kept going. 

I stopped by the side of the road on the climb with still 1.5km to go and I just didn’t have it in me. I dropped the bike and sat on the ground and looked for a room in town. I’d had a look a couple of days ago and knew it was more affordable than Strasbourg. The result is I have a beautiful room, the bike is safe, there is a common room with coffee and wine, and I will let someone cook me a meal tonight. I need the calories. 

Tomorrow is another day. Maybe a train instead of the climb. After all, it’s my holiday and I get to choose! 

Strasbourg to Colmar 72km

Strasbourg has amazing cycling infrastructure with separated bike lanes across the city and beyond. As a foreigner, the challenge is to work out how to get on them and stay on them. Eventually I made it to the tow path beside the canal and that took me all the way to Colmar. Not very interesting cycling but very safe and flat! A couple of sketchy bits with large rocks that required walking but apart from that, a relatively easy ride.

I was in Colmar in 2012 and I think it has changed substantially. The first thing I noticed was massive tour groups with leaders walking through the old town, up to 20+ people per group! There seemed much more commercialism this time round but I guess that’s to be expected. It was all very strange. In any case, I enjoyed my brief visit.

Strasbourg

A beautiful day in Strasbourg. Strasbourg is the capital city of the Grand Est region, formerly Alsace. It’s also the formal seat of the European Parliament and sits near the German border, with culture and architecture blending both German and French influences. It’s Gothic Cathedral Notre-Dame is incredible with the spire reaching 142m. It also has an astronomical clock which is one of the best I have seen. And I found a dedicated gluten free cafe and bakery! 

Luxembourg to Strasbourg - train

Today was a transfer day from Valerie’s home by car to Luxembourg to collect my bike from Susanna and then ride to the train station to take two trains to Strasbourg. 

Today was a day of solution finding. The trip from Luxembourg to Metz was easy with a working elevator. As often happens in France, the elevator in Metz was too small to take bikes (at least it was working) which can be very frustrating, especially when you need to change platforms to make a connecting train. Luckily, a wonderful young man carried my bike down the stairs and then when it came to the new platform, no less than five SNCF staff checked tickets and then watched as I struggled with my bike. They suggested the elevator but when I advised it was too small, they just shrugged their shoulders and turned away.

I frustratingly dumped the panniers at the bottom of the stairs knowing the train was departing imminently given the first train was late. Another man who was departing the station carried my bike up the stairs, while the original young man loaded it on the train and then both men made a dash to help me with my panniers. The original young man then helped me in Strasbourg to navigate the stairs yet again. So extraordinary to receive the help from strangers. There is a lot of kindness in the world.

Then alas, the camp ground is booked solid all week so there is no possibility to get a tent site even with a bike. Thanks goodness for the Ibis and a credit card! With a view of the cathedral! 

Metz

Valerie and I visited Metz today where we met with Carine and Laurent for a lovely day wandering the streets of the old town. We visited the famous gothic Metz Cathedral with 6500m2 of stained glass. Quite extraordinary. 

Tomorrow I will be reunited with my bike to continue my journey. My stay with Valerie has been exceptional and I am so very grateful for her friendship. On y va!