Waldkirch-Freiburg-Donaueschingen - train

After a lot of research and deliberation, I decided not to do the climb from Waldkirch to Donaueschingen. It’s a long climb and the heatwave is intense at the moment with many warnings across Europe. Instead, as a visitor, I was able to get a Konus card by paying the city tax at Hotel Zum Storchen and get free public transport within the Black Forest area which included a train from Waldkirch to Freiburg and then on to Donaueschingen where I will start my Danube leg. 

Firstly, I treated myself to an amazing meal at a Michelin restaurant attached to the accomodation I was staying at in Waldkirch. It was a delightful experience and such wonderful food. The chef even checked with me twice to make sure everything was okay given he had to make some modifications for my dietary restrictions. 

The accommodation was absolutely beautiful and I was made to feel extremely welcome. I don’t usually do comparisons, but, compared to the Ibis in Strasbourg at double the cost, I’d stay here at Hotel Zum Storchen any time! It was so worth it! The room was beautiful, the staff welcoming and the facilities excellent! Such a lovely town as well with a Saturday morning market. 

The train ride from Waldkirch to Freiburg was uneventful although it was somewhat perplexing to see my bike top tube used as a seat. The change of train in Freiburg was confusing because I had to go to the main station area to find which platform I needed for the train to Donaueschingen. Luckily I had made the earlier train from Waldkirch so had some extra time. 

The train from Freiburg was packed with people jostling for space for bikes. A young man was trying to work out where to safely put his Canyon carbon road bike as many of the bikes are heavy electric bikes. I suggested he could lean it against my panniers and this resulted in a great chat for the next hour. Ralph worked as a designer for Canyon bikes but had recently resigned to pursue other things. He was on a road ride to a friend in Switzerland and given the heat, opted to shorten the ride. He also opted to avoid the climb from Waldkirch given the heat, so I didn’t feel so bad on a 40kg touring steed! Luckily Ralph was on hand to explain that at one of the stations, we were about to lose the back carriages and all needed to move forward in the train. More jostling for space but incredible how people seated in the bike spaces just automatically move when they see you coming with a bike. 

I’ve had a nice room in Donaueschingen to rest before I start my ride Monday along the Danube. I wanted to see the source of the Danube, although that is a little controversial. I won’t go into it here,  but if you’re interested just Google ‘Danube source’ and you’re sure to find the history. 

It’s still very hot at around 38 degrees with a few storms passing through. I have opted for room again tomorrow night given the heat. I’ll be back to camping soon! 

Colmar to Waldkirch 66km

I was keen to get away as early as possible today given the heat. Breakfast was a non-event and not worth the money I paid. I need to be careful with this in future. After coffee, juice and a piece of fruit, I was packing the bike and heading out. 

I rode through beautiful quiet farmland on small roads and dedicated cycleways. It was so peaceful, As the day went on, I was stopping more frequently to cool down whenever I could. I even found a fountain to cool me down! 

My biggest issue at the moment is food. I just can’t get enough calories. With only a light breakfast, and no lunch (just a snack), it’s too late to find anything when I get in around 2-3pm. Then by the time I get to cook dinner, I’m no longer hungry so most of it goes in the bin! I need to find a way to better manage this. It’s not easy as a celiac. 

The campground ended up being up a massive hill and I somehow missed the bike path. These can be hard to find if you’re not used to it and are often behind hedges or greenery. I was misplaced a few times as my iPhone was struggling with the heat and wouldn’t display the screen. The result of the missed bike path was terrible abuse but whatever! I’m not intentionally being in anyone’s way. Interestingly, the police passed me and slowed down and then kept going. 

I stopped by the side of the road on the climb with still 1.5km to go and I just didn’t have it in me. I dropped the bike and sat on the ground and looked for a room in town. I’d had a look a couple of days ago and knew it was more affordable than Strasbourg. The result is I have a beautiful room, the bike is safe, there is a common room with coffee and wine, and I will let someone cook me a meal tonight. I need the calories. 

Tomorrow is another day. Maybe a train instead of the climb. After all, it’s my holiday and I get to choose! 

Strasbourg to Colmar 72km

Strasbourg has amazing cycling infrastructure with separated bike lanes across the city and beyond. As a foreigner, the challenge is to work out how to get on them and stay on them. Eventually I made it to the tow path beside the canal and that took me all the way to Colmar. Not very interesting cycling but very safe and flat! A couple of sketchy bits with large rocks that required walking but apart from that, a relatively easy ride.

I was in Colmar in 2012 and I think it has changed substantially. The first thing I noticed was massive tour groups with leaders walking through the old town, up to 20+ people per group! There seemed much more commercialism this time round but I guess that’s to be expected. It was all very strange. In any case, I enjoyed my brief visit.

Strasbourg

A beautiful day in Strasbourg. Strasbourg is the capital city of the Grand Est region, formerly Alsace. It’s also the formal seat of the European Parliament and sits near the German border, with culture and architecture blending both German and French influences. It’s Gothic Cathedral Notre-Dame is incredible with the spire reaching 142m. It also has an astronomical clock which is one of the best I have seen. And I found a dedicated gluten free cafe and bakery!