After a lot of research and deliberation, I decided not to do the climb from Waldkirch to Donaueschingen. It’s a long climb and the heatwave is intense at the moment with many warnings across Europe. Instead, as a visitor, I was able to get a Konus card by paying the city tax at Hotel Zum Storchen and get free public transport within the Black Forest area which included a train from Waldkirch to Freiburg and then on to Donaueschingen where I will start my Danube leg.
Firstly, I treated myself to an amazing meal at a Michelin restaurant attached to the accomodation I was staying at in Waldkirch. It was a delightful experience and such wonderful food. The chef even checked with me twice to make sure everything was okay given he had to make some modifications for my dietary restrictions.
The accommodation was absolutely beautiful and I was made to feel extremely welcome. I don’t usually do comparisons, but, compared to the Ibis in Strasbourg at double the cost, I’d stay here at Hotel Zum Storchen any time! It was so worth it! The room was beautiful, the staff welcoming and the facilities excellent! Such a lovely town as well with a Saturday morning market.
The train ride from Waldkirch to Freiburg was uneventful although it was somewhat perplexing to see my bike top tube used as a seat. The change of train in Freiburg was confusing because I had to go to the main station area to find which platform I needed for the train to Donaueschingen. Luckily I had made the earlier train from Waldkirch so had some extra time.
The train from Freiburg was packed with people jostling for space for bikes. A young man was trying to work out where to safely put his Canyon carbon road bike as many of the bikes are heavy electric bikes. I suggested he could lean it against my panniers and this resulted in a great chat for the next hour. Ralph worked as a designer for Canyon bikes but had recently resigned to pursue other things. He was on a road ride to a friend in Switzerland and given the heat, opted to shorten the ride. He also opted to avoid the climb from Waldkirch given the heat, so I didn’t feel so bad on a 40kg touring steed! Luckily Ralph was on hand to explain that at one of the stations, we were about to lose the back carriages and all needed to move forward in the train. More jostling for space but incredible how people seated in the bike spaces just automatically move when they see you coming with a bike.
I’ve had a nice room in Donaueschingen to rest before I start my ride Monday along the Danube. I wanted to see the source of the Danube, although that is a little controversial. I won’t go into it here, but if you’re interested just Google ‘Danube source’ and you’re sure to find the history.
It’s still very hot at around 38 degrees with a few storms passing through. I have opted for room again tomorrow night given the heat. I’ll be back to camping soon!
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