Ericeira to Peniche - 57 bloody hard kms

Despite being a shorter day, it was probably the hardest touring day I’ve ever had in 15000km. When I reflect on the Tarn and the Ardeche on the tandem, my previous hardest days, this was different. It was just me. 

After trying to dig the bitumen from my tyres, I’ve realised I will probably need to replace them. I’ll wait until Porto where there are more options including a Specialised dealer. It was really damp this morning so I had to pack up a wet tent. It’s funny because it’s not rain but rather mist. 

I’m officially divorcing the EV1. The track today was so mixed. Some beautiful cycling but quite a lot was impassable. I had to unload the bike to get it up the steep gravel inclines which unfortunately these pictures don’t show. Trying to pack it again at the top with nothing to lean it against was another challenge. For quite a bit, I walked, pushing with my left hand and dragging forward with my right behind the seat. My body is broken today. After 21 euro for a very average campsite last night, I’ve found a lovely room for 35 euro. Worth it after the day I’ve had. 

Nuno, the owner, is so pleasant. He told me that I’ve ridden the hardest part of Portugal! 🤯😳🥵 Good to know! He has also suggested I am about to enter a flatter area before the hills start again around Porto. He has recommended I change my route and has offered some suggestions. I’ll work on that in the morning as I need a big feed and an early night. 

Lisbon - Cascais - Ericeira - 68km

Well what a day of mixed experiences! So as not to bore you, I’m going to dot point it for those in a hurry. More details below. 

High heart rate alerts - 3

Aussies met - 2

Unrideable roads (not roads) - 2

Times temporarily misplaced - three (at least)

Food - Neil’s famous biscuit - thank goodness. And three shot blokz.

Trains - 1

Wet bitumen roads - 1

Pot holes - too many to count

Weather - strange even by Portuguese standards

The day started out fabulously with the bike packed and ready to head to the train station on time. Unfortunately, on the way there I got a high heart rate alert. The traffic was shocking so I’m putting it down to the anxiety around that.

I arrived in Cascais without any problems. The train system was easy and efficient. It took me a while to work out how to get onto the EV1 and while doing so, got chatting to a couple of Aussies. It was so nice to connect after a few days without it. I eventually found my path and the infrastructure was great. Just rolling hills beside the ocean. Perfect! 

Then I took a wrong turn up a decent climb. I didn’t know it at the time and I had a truck for company cheering me on wishing me Buen Camino. It was fabulous. There was a cafe at the top which was also a centre for e planning the sand dunes in this area, stunning. 

By the time I realised I was off piste, I knew that likely meant more climbing in the other direction. Boy was I right. It was a continuous climb but the gradient actually suited me. I got into a rhythm and seemed to eat it up. Until….. the EV1 took me to a place no man had been before! Well maybe some but I was a little unnerved to be honest. I was literally pushing my bike through unrideable track. In the end, I gave up and backtracked to find the road. Best decision. However, I chose to follow the EV1 again and it was crazy. The climbing was undoable. I checked in with Google maps and it gave me an option that looked fine so I took it. Then as I went down a 20% + hill, I knew there was no going back. Only problem, I was on a goat track, literally. 

I eventually found the road only to climb more but again the gradient suited me. Until I hit roadworks with lanes controlled by traffic lights. Wet bitumen, my tyres are now covered in it and I’m not sure what to do. I’ll reassess tomorrow after having to find my own route through the town to eventually make the campground just before 6pm. That’s late for me! Boy what a day. 

I’d like to see the town so will see how I feel tomorrow. Food was very scarce today with just a cookie that Neil baked and a few shot blokz. I managed to get some chicken, rice and wine from a close service station but still need to get my compostela stamped. The campground doesn’t have one. ☹️ The weather is very strange with low cloud everywhere. It’s like a whiteout!

A big day! 

More walking and a train station recon

 After a picture perfect day yesterday, this morning I woke to dreary skies. I had planned to do a recon to the train station to map my route in preparation for my departure tomorrow.  I decided to do some more exploring on foot and wait for the weather to pass, which it mostly did by late afternoon.

Lisbon is such a vibrant city with so much to see and do. Today I happened to cross an indoor market. It was a really interesting place and reminded me of Victoria markets in Melbourne and also markets throughout France but most famously Paris and Lyon. 

The streets in the old town are super steep and the drizzle made the cobbles very challenging. I can’t believe the amount of people here, I had secretly hoped they’d mostly be in France for the olympics! 

Tomorrow is my first official cycling day. I’ve not planned a big one as the first is always the hardest. The wobbles with all the gear on the first day are truly a challenge. It takes me a few days to get into a rhythm. Stay tuned, 

Lisbon and a food fail

 A beautiful day exploring Lisbon with an epic food fail. After much ado, I settled on a little restaurant in the old town and ordered a salmon salad and a glass of rose. Unfortunately the salad arrived covered in couscous which wasn’t on the menu. 😱 a celiac’s nightmare. Needless to say, I didn’t eat it and continued my exploration, eventually finding something edible. Note to self, question the contents of the meal even if it looks safe. 

I managed to get my credential stamped at the cathedral so very happy about that. 

Chores and exploring

I knew today would be a day of chores. Getting the bike together was the number one task. One could say I was a little paranoid about damage and used too much packaging, however, the bike made it unscathed.

After a hiccup with getting the front rack installed, the bike is assembled and ready to roll. Test ride tomorrow. 

Next job was to find fuel. I’d researched a few options but decided to check with reception. After getting directions to the closest Brico, and asking a customer for help 😱, I managed to source my fuel for the MSR. Winning. 

Now to explore Lisbon….

Long haul flights……

 Check in was super stressful when I realised I was above my weight limit.  Neil and Sarah were so calm just offering suggestions for shuffling some of my gear to make sure my carry on was 7kg. After some careful strategising, I managed to make it onboard without paying anything extra. It won’t be a problem on the return as I tend to dispose of lots of bits and pieces before I return. This includes unused toiletries, the bike chain, food, etc. 

After a couple of glasses of wine thanks to my beautiful daughter, the nerves settled enough to say goodbye and start my solo journey. A couple of messages and phone calls and before I knew it, it was time to board. 
I sat next to an interesting guy called Tim, who is Cam McEvoy’s coach for the Olympics. He is heading over to meet him there. Interestingly travelling in cattle class like me. Maybe swimming coaching doesn’t pay that well? 🤔

I decided to wear my mask most of the time. I don’t want to get sick before I start my ride and it’s a minor inconvenience. Tim is actually doing the same to protect himself and the athletes. It’s clear other people do take Covid and influenza seriously. Especially when your country is depending on you winning! 

What a challenging flight from Dubai to Lisbon with a screaming child across from me and a constant chair kicker behind me. Anyway, finally made it feeling so sorry for the parents. 

I didn’t have to wait too long for the bike and a kind gentleman helped me get it on the trolley. After a long walk to the meet up area, I was stopped by customs asking if I was going to sell the bike. 🤔 After I explained what I was intending to do, I was on my way. 

Another hiccup through the airport when the bike fell off the trolley and another kind person there to help. The transfer was great. I was a few minutes early but he was really responsive and pleasant. 

I arrived at the guest house and the check in was seamless. After a hot shower, some basic groceries and a walk, it was time for bed. Let’s see what tomorrow brings. 

The game of Tetris

 

This trip has been four years in the making after Covid put a stop to my plans in 2020. After my accident last year, my focus has been on staying fit and healthy. It’s been a challenge both mentally and physically but I’m now only a few days out and wrapping myself in cotton wool. No more riding until I arrive in Lisbon.

Anyone who has toured before knows the challenge of getting your bike in a box, your gear in a bag, and getting on a plane without paying excess baggage. I haven’t had to pay in more than ten years of touring and fingers crossed won’t need to this time. 

Packing has been more sporadic than I would have liked but today I got there. The only decision left to make is whether to use an AirTag in the duffle bag. I have one in the bike so am still considering whether I need to do this for the rest of my gear. The weighing will happen at the airport when I have both moral and physical support. 

Some photos during my Tetris process over the past week. If only work didn’t get in the way.